Cerasuolo di Vittoria Cos Giusto Occhipinti 2015

Cerasuolo di Vittoria COS, biodynamic, juicy cherry, crisp, intense fruit. Cerasuolo di Vittoria was the first Sicilian wine to be given DOCg status (that is denominazione di origine controllata e garantita, quite a mouthful). At that time, there weren't many DOCg, about 25, but nowadays there are over 70 and counting. Once again it makes a mockery of an appellation system, I mean how many wines will end up being DOCg? As we all know, it is much better to know your producer than know your appellation! Anyway, that said, Cerasuolo is still pretty good and Cos is one of the best. The Cerasuolo is black cherry, blackberry and plum followed by aromas of raspberry, blueberry, carob, violet, tobacco and vanilla. The mouth follows the nose, a slightly tannic attack and pleasing crispness, however balanced by alcohol, good body and intense flavours. The wine is good young but also ages very well, becoming more leathery and savoury with age.

COS was started by Giusto Occhipinti with two classmates back in the early 1980s. On a shoestring budget, the three friends vinified the grapes from their parents' vineyards. After experimenting with toasty oak and big flavours from over-ripe Nero d'Avola, they quickly realised that it wasn't the direction they wanted to go in. They then took a step back and started favouring concrete and amphorae. Their winemaking too changed, from modernism to non-interventionist wine making. Now they are well established as one of Sicily's leading exponents of biodynamic production and make wines of freshness and aromatic expression. COS does not use selected yeasts and has never used chemicals in the vineyards.