Esegesi Cabernet/Merlot Eugenio Rosi 2014

Esegesi Eugenio Rosi, biodynamic, Cabernet/Merlot, rich, layered, Italian Claret. Esegesi is Eugenio's Bordeaux. Made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the dense colour in the glass of this natural wine continues to unfold layers of rich black and red fruits: plums, cassis and cherries that were promised by the aromatic nose. On the palate the notes of cedar, cigar box and leather balance and fascinate, offering a firm footing to the lush and silky palate. The depth of the tannins is surprising, but they are made supple with a little aeration. The finish is long and fine with the mountain flavours lingering on and on. This would go well with any grilled meats. In Trentino they would have it with blood sausages called biroldi and salt-cured beef called carne salata. Very very nice natural wine with depth and no funkiness. Well done Eugenio.

Eugenio Rosi really is one of the great's of artisan wine making, he thinks outside the box, goes his own way and defies convention, not least with his 'Jesus Christ' like appearance. He is one of the key figures in the 'Dolomitici organisation which promotes artisan and natural production in the Trentino. He is also the first inspirational artisan wine maker I ever met over a memorable dinner at 'Due Veneti' in Marylebone. We had several bottles of his beautiful Marzemino and Eugenio was disarmingly chatty and humble. Poiema is named after his daughter who was very ill at birth and nearly died. Now a healthy little girl, she helps Eugenio stick the labels on his bottles. Eugenio is also an integral part of the 'Dolomitici' organisation which is a group of thirteen artisan wine producers from the Trentino who have come together to promote natural, sustainable wine production in their region. The wines of Eugenio typify the Trentino but also the natural style of the artisan and to a certain extent the purity of imperfection. Wines like his are not the same very year, they taste different every time you open them and in what context. Natural wine is alive and non more so than the delicious bottles produced in tiny quantity by this natural wine guru.