Chevassu Chardonnay Sous Voile 2023

Chevassu Chardonnay Sous Voile, delicious, complex, layered and unusual Chardonnay from the Jura. Chardonnay Sous Voile has a delicious taste of honeysuckle and cream and a richer toffee pudding note. The palate cuts through with a a lovely vein of acidity, bringing lemons and melons. There is a saltiness to this wine, not dissimilar to the Savagnin of Vin Jaune fame.  But here it is softer, which comes from its time ageing under a layer of flor yeast.  Chevassu Chardonnay is a fascinating wine for both those who think they know Chardonnay, but also a great shout for sherry drinkers who want a table wine with some character.  It cries out for some sharp and creamy Jura cheese or maybe a Fondue.

Chevassu wine maker Marie-Pierre is a young vigneronne whose wines are definitely old style.

At just 50 hectares Chateau Chalon is home to the extraordinary Vin Jaune. (“Yellow wine”) Made from the Savagnin varietal, aged in small oak barrels for a minimum of 6 years and 3 months under a thick layer of flor yeast. This aging method, similar to that used for fino sherry in Spain, but in France specific to the Jura. This allows the wine to acquire its distinct flavours, characteristic of walnut, almond, spice and apple, before release. Marie-Pierre makes a Chardonnay which is influenced by this method, which has all the richness and body you'd expect from a Chardonnay, but with that extra dimension of salinity and nuttiness. The vineyards are worked organically and only natural methods are used in the winery. The Poulsard, a local grape variety is also fascinating - crunchy, light, juicy and a bit funky.