IGP Gresivaudan Ma Douce Giachino 2024

IGP Gresivaudan Ma Douce Giachino, biodynamic wine, rare local grape, rehabilitated and now flourishing, stunning red wine, unique character, both sweet and savoury.  Douce Noir had nearly died out in the region of Savoie but a resurgence of interest in the wines from the Alpes and its grapes have led to new plantings and a return of its appeal.  Douce Noir is the same grape as Corbeau in the Jura and Bonarda in Northern Italy and Argentina.  It is also grown in California, under the synonym of Charbono. 

Douce Noir is a late ripening grape and as the name suggests produces deeply coloured wines with a certain sweetness to the fruit, hence Douce (sweet) Noir (Black).  It has thick skins, and can make very dense dark, structured wines that can be a little clumsy and tend towards over ripeness and jammy flavours.  If underripe, it can also be overly green and vegetal.  But when done well in the correct soils and climate, Douce Noir can produce beguiling wines with immense drinkability, a lovely perfume and fantastic balance between crunchy dark fruits, freshness and a touch of sweetness. 

Ma Douce is another red wine which has plenty of flavour but tops out at only 10.5% abv.  It is delicious on its own (we don’t often say that about red wine) but also pairs well with game, lamb or rich stews, ‘Un bon Civet de Lapin’!

Domaine Giachino was created in 1998 when Frédéric took over the 1,5 hectare family estate in the Savoie region of the Alpes, from his grandfather Marius Genton.

Later joined by his brother David, they progressively enlarged the estate to its current 9 hectares and enriched their vineyards plantings with new grape varieties particular to their area of the Savoie.  Those varieties included Mondeuse, Gamay, Persan and Douce Noire for the reds and Roussette (also called Altesse for the whites).  Today 6 of the current 9 hectares are planted to the original grape of the domain, the Jacquere, and two of the wines produced come from this grape, the white Monfarina and the Orange wine, Marius et Simone, named after Frederic's Grandparents. 

The vineyards of Domaine Giachino are Located in the village of Chapareillan, in the heart of the Regional Park of the Chartreuse, between Chaîne de Belledonne and Mont Granier not far from Chambéry.  The vines lie on the lower slopes of the Mont Granier, the mountain which dominates the landscape. The soils are moraine, clay and limestone; this is a rare and specific geology, forged by a terrible disaster which happened back in the 13th century.  An enormous landslip from the upper slopes of the mountain brought 500 million square metres of rock down onto the villages below obliterating five of them and the people who lived there.  This unbelievable event was the source of this unique terroir which now produces delicious natural wines.

The values and philosophy of the two brothers made the switch to natural and organic methods inevitable and they took this decision back in 2006.  Now they farm fully biodynamically and are certified by Demeter.  The domaine benefits from an incredible natural environment.  The cold weather in the winter kills bugs and disease, and in a way, means each new vintage has a blank slate and fresh start.  However, increases in temperature over the past few years as a result of climate change are starting to impact on this cycle, snow in the valleys of the Alpes, now being a much rarer occurrence.  Vintages are becoming wetter and as a result, more unpredictable.  In response to these changes, there has been a shift towards natural production as producers realise the best way to combat climate change is a more integrated approach.

Savoie wine has had something of a resurgence in the last few years and in general, production is still fairly small.  There are only approximately 2200 hectares in the whole region, compare that to 30000 hectares in nearby Burgundy.  It remains a bit of a well kept secret and many of the wines are consumed by visitors in the busy Alpine tourist destinations. 

In our view, they are wines you must seek out.  The reds are not big and bold and the whites are not fruit driven Sauvignon Blanc style, they are more interesting but also so incredibly drinkable, particularly when paired with any of the amazing local foods.  We have drunk many a Savoie bottle and without doubt those made at Domaine Giachino are simply the best!