L’Esprit de Font Caude Chabanon 2009

L’Esprit de Font Caude Chabanon 2009, biodynamic wine, rich, round, mature, certified biodynamic, one of our favourites.  ‘Esprit’ means spirit in French, and this wine is a true reflection of the spirit of the Domaine of Alain Chabanon.  A wine with an incredible capacity for ageing, the 2009 is still in rude good health and would improve further.  The Mourvedre here is stricking in its purity, stoney layers of dark fruits, garrigue and simply sublime purity.  For us, the concept of body in red wine is misunderstood.  It is not sweetness, or confected power which coats the mouth in a thick over-extracted mulch.  If you would like to understand full body in red wine, try one of these beautiful, mature red wines.  The Grand Cru of the Languedoc.

Alain Chabanon is one of handful of pioneering Languedoc producers. Who setting out in the late 80s to lift the region out of the doldrums and realise the amazing potential for quality.

Alain Chabanon wanted old vines, great terroir and natural production and chose the region of Montpeyroux. Just below Larzac’s stone plateau to start his project 'Man is not all-powerful. Biodynamics opens our eyes and invites us to look at what is happening in the world around us. To understand the delicate alchemy of nature to produce outstanding wines.' He was certified Biodynamic in 2011 and like Nicolas Joly believes that biodynamic is 100% or nothing. Even organic treatments – they are avoided as they are unnecessary.

Chabanon believes that the vines must find their nutrition from the soils themselves. Even if only a small yield can be produced. Dung compost is used. Also a homeopathic dose of silica is added to the water before it is filtered and sprayed onto crops.

Sadly, the Languedoc doesn't seem to demand the same lofty reputation as some other regions of France. Possibly because of chequered history of large scale cooperative wineries. Chemical use and poor quality wines sold in plastic footballs. This is such as shame and the great wines from the area are without doubt some of the best in France. They also have the incredible ability as great wine has to transport the drinker to the place. You sense the garrigue, you taste the herbs and almost feel the warmth on your face. Chabanon's wines do this perhaps more than any others we have from the Languedoc. They need time and we recommend for those to cellar wine to drink both reds and whites at 8-10 years old.