Vino Bianco Baratuciat Scovero 2024

Vino Bianco Baratuciat Scovero, a rare white grape being revived in Piemonte, naturally fermented with 15 days skin maceration to produce a wild and characterful wine with unique flavours and sensations.  Baratuciat is a grape which is known as both a table grape and a wine grape.  It has high acid and some of the characteristics of Sauvignon blanc, eg the cat pee aroma, from which some ampelographers believe the name comes from, Baratuciat meaning cat’s testicles!!  This unusual grape was only added to the official list of Italian varieties in 2008 and is still very rare although has been historically grown in the region of Turin including the Susa valley.  Andrea Scovero loves the grape and its characteristics and so planted it about 10 years ago with a view to producing a new exciting white wine from his region.

Andrea Scovero is a third generation wine maker in Bionzo, a small village next to Costigliole d’Asti, nestled in the hills of Asti.  The vines and old farmhouse where you find the winery and his home are at about 200-300 metres above sea level.  The 50 year old Barbera vines he farms are in a kind of Amphitheatre shaped bowl, which is where the wine Barbera originally called 'Ciapin' takes its name, 'Ciapin' meaning Amphitheatre in dialect.

Andrea is no suave, sophisticated Piemontese wine maker like Giorgio Rivetti at La Spinetta.  No, Andrea is a farmer and an artisan through and through.  He is a big guy, warm hearted and friendly but quiet and softly spoken.  He makes wines without any intervention in vineyard and cellar, something he tells me is still very rare in Piemonte where large companies and conventional practice still hold sway.   Andrea has to discard the fruit from the last row of vines in each harvest as these vines absorb the contamination from the neighbouring growers, some of which are literally a few metres from his own.

He is a committed natural grower and has stuck to his principles even when the prevailing wind is not in his favour.  His wines are different from vintage to vintage.  They are authentic, you might say a little rustic, but honest, gutsy and hearty.  Both Barbera and Rosato are excellent but his Nebbiolo is something particularly fine, especially when considering the modest price for a production of only 1500 bottles a year.